Console guide
PS5, Xbox or Switch won't turn on: checks before you pay for a repair
Power checks for a PS5, Xbox or Switch that won't turn on, what the lights and sounds mean, and when it's the power supply rather than the console.
A console that does nothing when you press the button looks like the worst case, but several of the causes cost nothing to rule out. Work through the checks below before you book anything, and write down what you see and hear as you go. Those details are what tell a power fault from everything else.
Start with the outlet, the cable and a full power cycle
- Prove the outlet works. Plug a lamp or a phone charger into it. After its internal power reset (see the Xbox section below), Microsoft’s checklist for a dead Xbox has you check that the outlet works with other devices, that the power cable is firmly connected at both ends, and that it’s the cable that came with the console (My Xbox console won’t turn on).
- Plug straight into the wall. Microsoft tells Xbox owners to use a wall outlet rather than a surge protector or extension cord, so the console gets the full voltage it needs (Troubleshoot Xbox console unexpectedly turning off). Nintendo gives the same advice for testing a Switch 2 charger: an outlet, not a power strip (Nintendo Switch 2 system has no power).
- Do a real power cycle. Pressing the button again isn’t one. Unplug the console at the wall, wait, and plug it back in. The exact wait differs by console, and each manufacturer’s version is below.
What the lights and sounds tell you
On a PS5, the power indicator is the best clue you have. Sony’s power indicator guide explains each state:
- No light at all means the console is off.
- Solid white means it’s on. If it’s on but there’s no picture, that’s a video problem rather than a power one, and our no-picture guide covers it.
- Blue, then off again straight away: Sony sends that case to its PlayStation Repairs tool.
- Blinking white, or blue that never turns white, means the console is frozen. Sony’s fix is to unplug it, wait three minutes, plug it back in and turn it on.
- Pulsing red on a PS4 means it’s overheating.
An Xbox 360 shows its state on the power supply brick instead: green, red, flashing orange, steady orange or no light. Microsoft’s Xbox 360 power supply guide walks through each colour, and the colour decides whether the brick or the console is the suspect. A Nintendo Switch has no power light at all (Nintendo Switch system has no power).
Listen as well as look. A fan that spins, a disc drive that takes a disc, a controller that pairs: a console doing those things has power, and the fault is somewhere else.
PlayStation 5: Sony’s power checks
Sony’s PS5 power issues page sends each symptom (won’t turn on, loses power shortly after turning on, turns off while playing) to its PlayStation Repairs diagnostic tool, which also checks whether your console is eligible for an under-warranty repair. If your PS5 might still be under Sony’s warranty, check that before paying anyone.
If the light says the console is frozen and the three-minute unplug doesn’t clear it, Sony’s next step is reinstalling the console software from Safe Mode. Read the Safe Mode options carefully: Sony warns that Reset PS5 (Reinstall System Software) deletes all information on the console (How to troubleshoot disc issues on PS5 consoles). If your game saves aren’t backed up, ask before you pick that one.
Xbox: the console or the power supply?
The Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One X and Xbox One S have an internal power supply. Microsoft’s reset for it is simple: unplug the power cord from the console, wait 10 seconds, plug it back in and press the Xbox button on the front. Microsoft says power problems are often the internal supply resetting after a power surge, and that if the console still won’t start after the reset and the outlet and cable checks, it needs service. It also warns that skipping any of those steps can lead you to replace a power supply when it’s the console that needs repair (My Xbox console won’t turn on).
The Xbox 360 is easier to read, because its power supply has a light. With a red or flashing orange light, or no light, Microsoft has you reseat every cable and try an outlet in another room before concluding the supply needs replacing; for a red or flashing light, it adds letting a hot power supply cool for 30 minutes. With a steady orange light, it suggests trying another Xbox 360 power supply to find out whether the fault is the supply or the console. With a green light, it points to the console (Troubleshoot your Xbox 360 power supply).
More on Xbox repair and the consoles we work on.
Nintendo Switch: charge it before assuming the worst
A Switch with a flat battery can look completely dead. Nintendo’s steps for the Switch, Switch Lite and Switch OLED are: take the console out of the dock, unplug the AC adapter from the wall and the console for 30 seconds, hold the POWER button for 20 seconds, plug the adapter back in and press POWER once (Nintendo Switch system has no power).
If the battery was nearly empty, the screen stays off and a small charging indicator shows briefly in the top-left corner. Nintendo says to charge it for at least 15 to 30 minutes with an undamaged Nintendo adapter before trying again. It also says to check the adapter’s model number, look for a frayed cord or loose connector, and inspect the USB-C connector on the bottom of the console: if that connector is damaged, the console needs servicing.
The Switch 2 follows the same steps with its own adapter. It has a USB-C connector on the top and the bottom, and Nintendo suggests trying the other one if no charging indicator appears (Nintendo Switch 2 system has no power).
More on Nintendo Switch repair.
When it’s the power supply, and when it’s the board
No power at all, or power that cuts out, can be the power supply or a fault on the board. A console that starts, runs for a few minutes and then shuts itself off, often with the fan roaring, points to heat instead. Microsoft says a console that keeps turning off might not be getting the ventilation it needs (My Xbox console won’t turn on), and that’s a different repair: see console overheating repair and our overheating guide.
What you can’t tell from outside is whether a console that stays dead after every check above has a failed power supply or a fault on the board. That’s Microsoft’s warning in plain terms, and it’s why we diagnose before quoting a part.
When not to spend the money: if the console is still under the manufacturer’s warranty, use that first. Sony and Microsoft both route a dead console to their own repair service.
Before you book
Have this ready when you book:
- The exact console: PS5, PS5 Slim, Xbox Series X, Switch OLED and so on.
- What the light does, if there is one, and what you hear when you press power.
- What happened before it stopped: a power cut or storm, a move, a knock, or nothing at all.
- Which of the checks above you’ve already tried.
See PlayStation repair for the PS5, PS4 and PS3. Diagnostics are $50, credited toward the repair, so if you’ve done the checks and it still won’t start, let us find out which part has failed rather than guessing.
What it costs here
Power supply replacement: the lowest and highest price across the models we list, by brand.
| Brand | Power Supply Replacement |
|---|---|
| Xbox | $99–$149 |
| PlayStation | $119–$169 |
| Nintendo (Wii U, Wii) | $109 |
Every model's exact price: Repair prices by model
$50 repair diagnostics, credited toward your repair, and we come to you anywhere in New Jersey.